Carb Rebuild (Part 1)

So in researching this work I am learning quite a bit. These Phillips head screws I see everywhere are not, in fact, Phillips head screws at all. They are what is knows as Japanese Industry Standard or JIS. There is a very subtle difference to the pattern and angle of the tip (link: Phillips vs JIS).

In order to remove some of these screws an impact screw driver was needed.

The main kit I will be using is the GL1500 carb rebuild kit from Randakk's Cycle Shakk. Folks say this is the best kit to use for the task, and I don't want to have to do this twice.

Being a very visual person, I took many pictures of the carb assembly before taking it apart.

In order to get the top plate and the cooler off of the carbs I will need to use an impact driver. These screws have likely not been removed in over 20 years. I placed the assembly on top of some pieces of wood to support it and not damage components on the other side.

Next I disconnected the choke linkages.

This clamp is what hold the choke cable in place on the top plate.

This little pipe connects the accelerator pump to the top plate.

Now remove the o-rings from the top of the top plate.

Next it's time to remove the cooler from the bottom.

This is some kind of overflow drain. The T connector is a strange beast because it's just open on one side. I'm not entirely certain how this is supposed to work.

This the fuel inlet from the petcock.

Now I remove the linkage from the accelerator cam to the accelerator pump.

This is a bracket that secures the overflow drain tube on one side.

Next up, remove the accelerator linkage between the carbs.

Hard to see in the pics the funky T junction.

Now I take a moment to remind everyone that a horribly disorganized workspace is key to success.

10 mm

7 mm